Thursday, April 24, 2014

56 Critical Items

Lesson learned, planning your first ultralight cycle tour can be stressful, time-consuming, and costly.  Below is a list of everything I plan to take with me tonight, including weight.

Excluding my riding kit (clothing I'll wear while cycling) the gear totals a little over 11 lbs.

Category
Item
Brand
Model
Weight (g)
Accessories Bike lockEagle Creek 67
Accessories ID & Credit Cards VISA 14
AccessoriesSunglass pouch Quechua 17
Clothing Board shortsPatagonia Light and Variable112
ClothingExtra wool socks SmartwoolPhD Light Anklet 54
ClothingFlip flops Reef 291
Clothing Hard shell jacketArcteryx Beta AR459
Clothing Pants ArcteryxPerimeter pant 309
ClothingWool boxer briefs Icebreaker M Tech Lite Mt. Cook54
ClothingWool hoodie NauM2 Hoody 255
ClothingWool t-shirt Icebreaker 145
Eating Drink bottles (2)Misc local shops 165
Eating SporkSnow Peak Titanium Spork16
Riding kit Arm warmers SauconyPowerknit LT 50
Riding kitHelmet Specialized Propero II259
Riding kit Leg compression 2XUNon-stirrup 41
Riding kitRiding bib Hincapie Power GT214
Riding kit Riding cap Pearl IzumiBarrier 27
Riding kitRiding glasses Tifosi 37
Riding kit Riding gloves SpecializedXC Lite 38
Riding kitRiding jersey Hincapie Signature Jersey219
Riding kitRiding mirror TAKE A LOOK 9
Riding kitRiding shoes Giro Factor646
Riding kit Riding wool socks SmartwoolPhD Ultralight Anklet 35
SafetyFront light Lupine Systems Piko 3193
Safety Rear light/reflector Portland DesignsRadbot 61
SafetyReflective triangle Jogalite 46
Safety Sunscreen 35
Sanitation Soap SeaToSummitWilderness Wash 56
SanitationToothbrush (cut in half) 5
Sanitation Toothpaste 32
Sanitation Towel PackTowel15"x15" 24
SleepingSleeping bag Zpacks 20 degree600
SleepingSleeping pad ThermarestNeoAir Xlite 387
StorageCockpit bag XLab Stealth Pocket 10053
StorageCompression sack Outdoor ResearchUltralight 10L 88
StorageDry bag Revelate Dry bag132
Storage Headset bag 1 RevelateMountain Feedbag 83
StorageHeadset bag 2 Revelate Mountain Feedbag83
StorageSeat post harness RevelateTerrapin 370
StorageVelcro straps SecureTM 34
Tech GoProGoPro Hero 3 Black77
Tech GoPro bar mount GoPro 46
TechGoPro case GoPro 89
TechGoPro charger cable 20
TechGoPro spare batt Wasabi Power 24
Tech HeadphonesMarley Zion16
Tech iPhone + caseApple iPhone 5142
TechiPhone charger Apple41
ToolsChain tool Park ToolCT-5 77
ToolsLevers Park ToolTL 4 32
ToolsMaster chain link 4
Tools Multi-toolTopeak Mini 674
Tools Patch kit SlimeSkabs 9
ToolsPump TopeakPeakini II 132
ToolsSpare tube Generic 110

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

A Backpacker Catapulted 'Up in the Air'

Where have I been?  I've been up in the air for the past couple of years.

With a heap of gritty and sometimes scary backpacker experiences under my belt, I entered the corporate world in late 2008 ready for an entirely new type of experience.  Within a week of starting work for a big 4 accounting firm in San Francisco, I was off to Scottsdale, AZ for some good 'ole fashioned corporate training.  Without going into detail, it was at that moment when I knew the days of sketchy $3 hotels and dodgy meals were about to end.  A bitter-sweet turning point.

Having made it clear to my colleagues that I could withstand the road-warrior lifestyle during my internship a year earlier, I received a phone call while in Scottsdale that my first assignment would take place in Kuala Lumpur...  Back to Malaysia!  This was probably the most uplifting thing I could have heard as I transitioned from backpacking to the real world.  Just before Malaysia, my motivation was confirmed as our team gathered in Napa for a 'get back in touch' sort of gathering and more team-specific training.

Two years later, I've flown approximately 200,000 miles, spent around 150 nights in business hotels, and worked in Japan, Canada, South Korea, Mexico, and Peru, not to mention nearly half the states in the US!  Britt and I currently live in Paris, France as my firm has coordinated a four month exchange for me, more on that later.

The type of travel I've experienced has completely changed, as expected.  My primary travel resource changed from Lonely Planet books to www.flyertalk.com, an online business traveler community.  Now, I would like to share some key reflections:

1.  Bigger, more luxurious hotel rooms/suites, are not necessarily more satisfying than budget guest houses.

While I've had some uncomfortable moments in questionable hotels while backpacking, the vast majority of backpacking nights were spent in communal guest houses or, at times, hostels.  These usually include enough comfort to be comfortable, but not to waste a vacation in the room; also, unfettered access to kitchens is a bonus.  Additionally, guest houses designed for backpackers are teeming with other travelers and advice on the local and surrounding areas.  These hotels put you in the position to interact with others.

In contrast, I have now stayed in some of the largest suites in some of the most luxurious properties around the world.  These upgrades were all given for free thanks to elite status with both Starwood and Hyatt.  Brittany and I were once given a huge suite in Anchorage called "The Pacific Rim Suite."  This was, at the time, the largest suite I had ever stayed in.  It would have been great if traveling with 100 friends and hosting a cocktail party, but instead the large empty space gave us a hollow feeling.  The two of us had no use for it.  I'll never forget the huge viewing window between the master bed and over-sized shower room, kind of kinky, kind of creepy.  At this type of hotel you are paying for complete privacy, which I understand if you are a really private person and making good use of the viewing window.

2.  It is ALWAYS worth it to ask for a flight, rental car, hotel upgrade

For air travel, the gate agent has the most control over your seat.  If they like you, they can click a button and upgrade you to first class.  If they dislike you, they can pull you off a plane, superseding any supervisor, TSA agent, or real police officer.  It is generally not as helpful to ask the desk agent when you check in for your flight, or the purser (head flight attendant) while in flight.  You never know when the gate agent pay have an available seat in first class and need a pleasant passenger to use it.

For car rental and hotels, call in your request ahead of time and ask customer service to just add a note, even if success is unlikely.  When I rent cars, I always call ahead and ask if I can be upgraded from an intermediate car to a Cadillac CTS, should one be available.  Renting the intermediate car class is also a key to success.  It often doesn't cost much more than a subcompact, but it is that magic category allowing for upgrades.  Full-size is sometimes the same price and works even better.  For hotels, I always make sure to add a note if my anniversary, birthday, whatever event is near the travel date.

3.  I'll never stop backpacking

Even though they often cross paths, business travel and backpacking are distinctly different.  There's no way I could satisfy backpacking travel goals while on a business trip.  Also, I plan personal trips in locations that I don't expect to travel for work.  This works out well because I don't end up double-backing to the same places and business travel locations are typically more costly, so why spend my own money in places like London, Hong Kong, or New York?

More to come.


Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Our Engagement

Why haven't I posted in so long?

The Europe writeup came amidst the backdrop of life as it changed rapidly. We left Europe just over a year ago, and, immediately before that adventure came to an end something new emerged.

Moving around quickly, we blinked and found ourselves atop the Eiffel Tower with only a few hours to spare before our plane departed - or was it?

Looking over Paris' infinity of architecture and history, I looked at Brittany innocently and smiled. Taking another moment, we peered together. With slight disappointment, as when good things come to an end, Brittany mentioned again that we should get going else we would miss our flight - not too concerned about the flight, I continued to peer.


As I mumbled something about what our hotel view might look like tonight, Brittany looked at me as if I was drunk, time slowed down, and my heart gonged as I dropped to one knee and presented her with a simple yes or no question. She looked at me as if I was playing an evil joke, paused, then cried a faint "yes" as her eyes teared.

(Moments Before)

It was then that I told Brittany a quick story about:
  1. Realizing the decision while descending from thin air and describing it with metaphor in my Everest blog article, "...my scattered thought process started to only register the important things in life. These thoughts would float vigorously and aimlessly as I entered thin air, and gently glide into position as my trekking companion and I soon descended. A few priorities have changed."... "Next week I fly to India to continue the journey with my amazing girlfriend Brittany, priority number 1."
  2. Crawling under a counter at a grungy internet cafe in India to ask her father's permission a month earlier (just after she left home to meet me)
  3. Intentionally booking our flights (only issued in paper ticket format) to leave Paris one day later than planned
  4. Booking the first really proper hotel of the trip, overlooking Paris and the Eiffel Tower
  5. My cousin, Kendall, scoring us dinner reservations at an amazing restaurant atop Centre Pompidou
  6. My sincerity, love, and commitment to our relationship
(Chez Georges atop Centre Pompidou; Brittany bought her
dress at the train station where we had stashed our backpacks)

The next day we flew to New Jersey, slummed it Amtrak-style over to Brooklyn to stay with Kendall, spent a couple of days transitioning back to the states, and salvaged one last surprise.

Originally picking up flights from New York to Arkansas with intentions of strolling into my extended family's reunion and surprising the pants off of my parents by showing up unexpectedly and engaged, plans changed.

My grandfather was diagnosed with cancer and we re-routed to Louisiana. Fortunately, the prognosis appeared strong by the time we made it to New Orleans and many surprises and tears streamed throughout the weekend. Since then, my courageous grandfather has conquered cancer and spent his 90th birthday in good health.

Brittany and I parted for only a few days to visit our families before embarking on a 30 day, 6,000+ mile road trip up the Rockies all the way to Jasper Park in Alberta, Canada, over to Vancouver, and down the coast to our current hometown, San Francisco.

(Washington State, untouched beaches west of Forks)

We picked up bikes in Colorado, an annual National Park pass outside Glacier National Park in Montana, and pitched tent in any campground or trailer park that would host us.

(Lake Louise in Banff National Park; Alberta, Canada)

Driving up, over, and down the states felt like a victory lap after winning a race around the world and winning each other as the grand prize.

The love of my life


www.October17Houston.com



Monday, July 21, 2008

Planes and Trains - Eurostint 2008

Touching down in Paris, Brittany and I booked it to the train terminal and bought unlimited rail passes.  We sped from country to country on high-speed bullet trains, stopping from time to time to check out the highlights and dabble in local culture.

We traveled through the following places:

France - Paris, Bordeaux
Spain - Madrid, Barcelona
Italy - Rome, Venice
Switzerland - Interlocken
Austria - Vienna
Germany - Frankfurt, Weitzbaden
Netherlands - Amsterdam
Belgium - Brugge
France - Versailles, Dijon, Paris

Pictures to come...

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Update

Look for more in a couple of weeks... say around mid July

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Nevermind - Delhi, India

Brittany landed her dream job in San Francisco. We both officially graduated two weeks ago. These events called for a time to celebrate and unfortunately India is not that type of place.
While in Nepal I once heard the country´s name stands for:

Never
Ending
Peace
And
Love

And India stands for:

I´ll
Never
Do
It
Again

Attempting to think more open-mindedly than that, we set out to plan a wonderful adventure through northern India´s mountains and forests. We didn´t make it very far.

[2009 Edit: The following description of our time in India sounds harsh and was harsh for us at the particular moment we visited. The country commands much respect from seasoned travelers because it's a land of about a billion people, many just trying to make ends meet. We have pledged and look forward to return, just not after spending four months apart. I highly recommend India for anyone looking to gain inner peace, patience, and appreciation for life's quaintest joys.]

Trying for days to leave Delhi, we passed out each evening exhausted from dodging touts and trying to make our way through Delhi´s deceptive and intricate traveler scams. Trying to book a train to the Taj Mahal resulted in an unfortunate chain of events leading to violent threats and minor assault from a crooked travel agent. We eventually took an overnight train and made it out to Corbett Tiger Reserve, only for our guide´s jeep to break down mid-morning and leave us stranded. Constantly battling petty scams and gastrointestinal ailments we looked at our options and listened to our burbling gut... get the hell away from India´s pollution, poverty, and invasive encounters with locals.

With little more than a phone call and some haggling we changed our tickets and hopped on the next flight to Paris. It´s been a week since we left India and our bodies are still fighting off intestinal and sinus issues.

Europe has offered a pleasant change of pace and we picked up unlimited global rail passes - so we can jump on and off any train throughout 20 European countries. We´ll probably visit 8 countries as we make our way around the motherland. Europe has treated us extremely well as I sit here in Madrid, digesting paella and lomo. Paris felt like home and I actually drank tap water and brushed my teeth with it for the first time since January.

There´s much to see, so much to write about, and so much to do while we´re here - so I must now sign off and head out to absorb as much as I can.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal (18,000ft)

Death peered over me as my body lay awake all night above 17,000 feet, or so I envisioned.

High altitude trekking contrasts traditional hiking in that it complements physical stress with an added mental duress. Take a simple bag of chips from sea level to 6,000 feet, say in one of the higher areas near Denver, and watch the bag expand to the cusp of bursting. Take something so complex as the human body three times higher to 18,000 feet and the brown stuff hits the fan.


Try to imagine this:

Cracking through my skull, a headache whipped through my head as I lay awake all night. Fatigue ached my muscles, tired from walking up dozens of miles in the rocky Himalaya. My heart raced as it tried to pump enough oxygen through my veins, drawing from thin air depleted to 50% the normal oxygen level. The acclimatization drug Diamox drained my corpus of fluid, drying out my throat more and more each time I rose out of my cold sleeping bag to eventually fill my third 1 liter bottle with urine. Subfreezing air rasped my filthy room in the mountain lodge as I cringed into a fetal position inside a -10 degree Celsius sleeping bag and under a heavy blanket. Low grade fever developed as I occasionally coughed and stared blankly at the thin, colorless wall to my right. Like particles in the bag of chips, my thoughts scattered more and more as I spent each night toward Everest Base Camp.


These ill-effects last up to a few hours in the daytime and typically fade as the body gradually adapts to altitude, leaving only memories behind. I debated how to write this entry, how to depict the most strenuous trek of my life, and decided to communicate the experience to the level of detail that I felt. Pardon the expression, but acclimatizing to those altitudes made me feel like yak shit. Somewhere in the silence of those wretched nights anxiety engulfed my thoughts for perhaps the second or third time in my conscious memory, and my scattered thought process started to only register the important things in life. These thoughts would float vigorously and aimlessly as I entered thin air, and gently glide into position as my trekking companion and I soon descended. A few priorities have changed.


Deciding to take on an "impossible" day as we were told by each Sherpa we encountered, Todd and I raced down 25 miles of difficult trail in search of heavy air, comfortable beds, a hot shower (my first shower in 10 days!), and meat, a rarity high in the mountains. Sucking down mouthfuls of thick air, we slept like infants before rising to conquer yet another massive descent to our final destination of Lukla. The lightening descent shaved three days off our trek and quickly brought our vitals out of remission.

Visiting Everest Base Camp offered us a rare glimpse into the world of hardcore mountaineering. Take my experience and multiply it to imagine what those gauchos experience; I'm not jealous. We ate freshly baked apple pie and sipped ginger tea at Base Camp in the Year of the Rat, just days after China summited the Olympic torch atop Mt. Everest and unlocked Sagarmatha's belt. Fortunately, Diamox and Ibuprofen spared the duress of altitude throughout our glorious final walk to Base Camp. I enjoyed every moment and can say approaching Base Camp's city of tents almost felt worth the struggle (needless to say though, I'm done with extreme altitude for a while!)


Regarding health on the mountain, nearly all of my symptoms were considered typical, spare the brief fever. I sought this trek only after participating in high altitude seminars [not to mention 4 summers as a wilderness guide and a recent jaunt around Nepal's equally tall though less painful Annapurna Circuit (see below)]. Everest teems with the world's most experienced mountaineers and experts on the effects of altitude. Throughout the trek I never once considered my health in danger. High altitude temporarily alters the thought process, though not more than a night of drinking. After all, I flew back to Kathmandu from Lukla early this morning and I'm sitting here typing a [hopefully] coherent response in perfect health.

Yes, I would recommend this trek, though only after appropriate training and/or under the supervision of a capable guide. If you want to experience the highest region on Earth remember to take it slow on the way up and drink TONS of water.

This week I relax in what's become the familiar town of Kathmandu.

Next week I fly to India to continue the journey with my amazing girlfriend Brittany, priority number 1.

Monday, May 5, 2008

The Indian Embassy - Kathmandu, Nepal

For the love of whatever religious figure you revere most, DO NOT EVER try to sort out an Indian Visa while in Nepal. I don't believe in complaining and even wear a rubber bracelet sometimes to publicize that belief, but this experience is worth mentioning because it's been utterly ridiculous and has grounded me in Kathmandu for a solid week.

Months ago I purchased a flight from Nepal to India, no problem except that e-tickets are not allowed for this route by government mandate; The ticket would have to be mailed from London to Kathmandu where I'll pick it up in person - call this bureaucratic foreshadowing.

Attempting to book a flight from Bombay to Paris I was rejected. One can book a flight into India easily, but you can't book a departing flight without proof of an Indian Visa.

How to get an Indian Visa while in Nepal:

1 - Arrive at midnight to stand in line with other travelers until 4am when numbered tokens are handed out.

2 - Return at 9am, hand in your token, take your designated place in line, and enter the Embassy single file

3 - Stand in line to submit an application to apply for an application for an Indian Visa. - The counter closes at noon no matter how many people are still waiting faithfully in queue and have been for hours.

4 - Pay $5 to send this application for an application to sit on someone's desk in Delhi

5 - Wait no less than 3 and no more than 10 business days before returning for Phase 2 - otherwise start over

6 - Repeat steps 1 and 2

7 - Stand in a different line leading to the same clerk to submit the actual application for an Indian Visa

8 - Pay $50 processing fee and add the usual US-Citizen tax ($25 in this case)

9 - Return to Embassy no earlier than 4:30 and no later than 5:30pm to pick up Visa, if approved.

These steps lack logic, efficiency, and display - it's up to each individual to figure it out his/herself. I met many people making their 12th, 14th, etc. etc. visits after standing in line all morning and being repeatedly turned away for a multitude of reasons. One guy had visited over 20 times in frustration to the point where it looked like he needed potent anti-depressants and a hug. To make matters worse, the guards will distribute tokens all morning long knowing people will wait for 6 hours only to find out that the counter closes sharply at noon, the time at which all those in line are ordered to vacate the premises and try again some other time.

Lesson learned? Always carry an iPod and a good book.

Sunday, May 4, 2008

10 Days Afloat - Karnali River, Western Nepal

Atrophied and awkwardly positioned, my back finally started to adapt to bouncing around in the fetal position across the pew-shaped and slightly padded bus seats which carried my small group 24 hours from Kathmandu to the launching point.

Brittany and I pride ourselves upon conquering some epic road trips, driving up to 27-hour segments before stopping for more than gas or food - cruising over 4,500 miles in a week-long dash around the mid western US - but this was so painfully different. The drive into western Nepal takes so long not due to distance, but because of Nepal's primitive and scarred infrastructure. A 100 mile journey takes 6-7 hours by bus on the better highways. For 24 hours my bones rattled as I bounced out of my seat and sometimes into the aisle. Forget sleeping or reading a book to pass time; I had so much trouble even manipulating my iPod that I finally said screw it and pretended I was getting a long, non-air conditioned Nepali massage. As is almost always the case, it was worth it.

Our guide estimates that only 10-15 rafts float the Karnali river each year due to the difficulty of logistics. In five years no one will enjoy the untouched civilizations and class IV+ rapids we conquered. Nepal claims position as the 6th poorest country in the world and things like world-class rafting trips don't mean much compared to potential revenues to be earned by large dams spanning and altering steep Himalayan rivers. Nepal won't use the generated electricity to fill in the 8-hour daily power shortages nationwide, rather they will sell the power to India or China.

Currently, the Karnali offers a stunning experience to its occasional visitor. Joining me were girls from New Zealand and Australia, a couple from Holland, a guide-in-training from England, and another male solo-traveler from Holland. We camped each night on its banks, played beach volleyball, chatted about our cultural differences, and each day became more comfortable with the curious locals. Each day we joked, massacred classic songs, and took turns wrestling each other overboard as we made our way down over 100 miles of mountain run-off and melted glacier.

Surrounding us each day were dozens of forest fires whose smoke filtered the view. Unlike the media frenzy and chaotic movement to save homes around California's Lake Tahoe and southern regions, nature took its course gracefully and without retaliation. Each night we'd look upon strips of blazing forest, traveling ever so slowly across the valley as the heat and dry air performed their annual duties. Never did we sleep in areas vulnerable to the risks imposed by the flames, we just glared into the lonely night sky each evening and fell asleep shortly after dusk under the glow of nature's process and a canopy of stars beaming brighter than ever.

The most fascinating and memorable memories of the trip included our interactions with the native residents. We bought meats from them, including fish, a freshly cut venison leg (including fur and hoof), and live chickens whom we appropriately named "Lunch" and "Dinner." We took the local peoples' portraits and watched their minds get blown over seeing themselves on the screen of our tiny devices.

We listened as the elders tried to communicate basic medical needs. And we left them with whatever medical supplies we had to offer: including band-aids, betadine solution, and eye drops for an older woman who works alongside everyone else each day in the dry, dusty air who appeared to have been rubbing her left eye for forty years. For the more serious problems, including a woman in a red dress who had recently been rammed and injured by a bull, I wish I had the training and supplies to do something more significant. This was a culture preserved from modern life. The people were beautiful in so many ways.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Follow the Yak Poo! - Annapurna Circuit, Nepal

Springing out of bed, I almost made it to the toilet before the vomiting started again. A sunburn and altitude cocktail would bring me to my knees throughout the night as my body scolded my decision to hike well into the Himalayan mountains.Seven days prior to this episode I met Sam, a British traveler of the same age, and without a guide, porter, or map we embarked on our journey throughout central Nepal. These forfeits worked out well as we watched hikers fire their guides, depend too much on their porters, and, well, we just followed the yak and mule poop to navigate past the few stray paths.

Trekking in many regions of Nepal offers a unique opportunity to interact with remote villages - one needn't pack any food or cooking equipment because hundreds of Nepalese have converted their quaint abodes into guesthouse/cafes. The hike itself snakes through massive valleys, constantly offering breathtaking scenery. It didn't take long to realize that this is what it's all about.The first few days introduced the foot hills of the Himalayas and I'll never forget walking around a bend to see that first white peek so far in the distance. Sam and I made great progress, and then we met altitude. Acute Altitude Sickness can present itself as low as 10,000 feet. This hike took us up to more than 17,000 feet. Taking all standard precautions we took rest days and slowly gained altitude.
Achieving sleep for maybe 2 hours at Thorung Phedi Base Camp (altitude 14,500 feet), we rose at 4:30am and ventured into a blanket of fresh Himalayan snow to attempt the summit. All started well until each step added to a flutter of dizziness and nausea. I paused at the upper base camp lodge, took a Diamox (to help the body adapt to altitude), and we pushed on, reaching Thorung La pass (altitude 17,769 feet) sometime before noon.The last 16 days have set a new benchmark for this trip and now I look to the next journey - tomorrow I take an 18 hour bus ride to reach the launching point of the Karnali river, a ten day adventure in far western Nepal.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Base Camp - Kathmandu, Nepal

Slaughtering a cow earns a two year prison sentence.  Electricity cuts off every evening for about 4 hours.  Welcome to Nepal and her largest city, Kathmandu.

Nepal made its way onto my destination list four years ago and a rush of anticipation and excitement took over my countenance as my Thai Airways lifted out of Bangkok.  The next two months will stand out in my lifetime and tomorrow I begin a three+ week high altitude trek called the Annapurna Circuit.  Though I'll stay in local villages each night and don't have to pack any food, my endurance will be put to the test as this may become a three week warm-up before attempting the Mount Everest Base Camp trek.  No, I'm not going to try and summit Everest (which costs about $70,000 through a respectable agency).


The Road to Angkor Wat - Siem Reap, Cambodia

Cambodia suffers a recent history of corruption and genocide. The demented Khmer Rouge organization murdered as many as a few million people and pillaged the country of it's culture and heritage. This rampage would end as recently as the 1980's.Angkor Wat and its surrounding area remains astounding, scattered with religious monuments of gargantuan proportion. The atheist Khmer Rouge stripped many religious statues of their heads, though many of the 800 year old buildings still stand tall or in minor ruin. Enormous trees, many hundreds of years in age, grow out of some of the massive structures - this part blew my mind because it just cannot exist in the states.

Monday, March 24, 2008

No Longer Allowed to Visit Tibet

Tibet will not see any visitors for a while. My itinerary has officially been re-routed in the midst of current events and I recently shredded my non-refundable flight from Bangkok to Hong Kong. As of one week ago I planned to travel overland from Hong Kong through the mountains of southwest China then into Tibet and Nepal. This route is no longer feasible as China has sealed Tibet's borders from the curiosity of foreigners and scrutiny of the media. Instead, I will join Thai Airlines and fly directly from Bangkok to Kathmandu, Nepal on March 30. This extends the Nepal portion of my trip to almost 2 months in the Himalayas; Mount Everest here I come!
My heart goes out to all Tibetans and their courageous monks who must continue to watch in vulnerability as China destroys and dilutes millenniums of Tibetan culture and its peaceful race.

Sex, Drugs, & Politics - Saigon, Vietnam

Shall I re-phrase that?

Corroded old men with twenty-something year old local women.
Children as young as seven years old offering me pot and cocaine.
Street vendors asking me whether Obama or Clinton will win the election.

I cannot escape these three issues.

The first topic has been covered: Revisit "Tim the Sex Tourist;" Though I must say Tim proved himself extreme compared to these lonely old-timers. The ex-pats here in Saigon, Vietnam desire medium to long-term relationships, maybe with one girlfriend in each of a few different countries, and they throw tidbits of their pensions at the girls to pay for things like braces, rent, diapers, etc.

The young cocaine dealer approached me in Laos. A tiny boy stopped playing with his friend for a moment. He made the offer and along with it came a childishly playful yet serious smile as he caught a breath. I casually walked past. My younger brother has a couple of years on this boy and enjoys the innocence of a healthy American childhood. When not in school or practicing for his black belt in karate John plays with and cares for Scout, his loved dog. Contrast? Looking back on the child's drug offer, the uninterested expression I maintained at the moment made the situation seem almost imaginary - like recalling a scene from a movie, something that's not real. This far from home the departure from our perception of reality becomes so polarized that it just doesn't even register sometimes.

Everybody wants to know what's happening in America. For many, it determines whether their family will have enough rice on the table next year. Without going into detail, the American economy affects the entire world more than any other economy in the entire world. Even though Americans travel less than citizens of any other developed nation (check me on this), many businesses in any country base their pricing on the [generally] stable US Dollar. Locals in every single country I have visited ask about the elections. Literally, I have been approached by gregarious street vendors who first ask what country I'm from then follow up with a remark about Obama or Hilary Clinton. This has become so commonplace it no longer causes my jaw to fall. Interestingly, not many people have heard of McCain...

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Hustle & Bustle - Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi traffic is the Devil's symphony. Close your eyes, cross your fingers, and trust the other senses. Crossing the street in Vietnam requires faith and a little luck. Traffic lights contribute more to the scenery than to chaos-control as millions of residents compete for road space. Intersections look like YKK zippers as motorcyclists and pedestrians constantly merge towards each other, their paths tying a knot too convoluted for even a Boy Scout to unravel. I heard about the ways of the road from a guy I met in San Francisco who broke his pinky finger when an oncoming motorcyclist miscalculated his bike's trajectory by a smidgen.Fortunately I made it out of Hanoi in one piece on my way to the limestone carved islands of Halong Bay in Vietnam's Gulf of Tonkin. 3000 torpedo-shaped land masses jet out of the murky water giving bearing to dozens of wooden sleeper boats. One of these boats would constitute my viewing deck for 2 days and home for a single night. We briefly docked to walk through "Halong Bay's best cavern," supposedly discovered in 1993 and now laden with disco-colored flood lights. Thirty minutes of sea-kayaking and a few meals later I hopped on a bus back to Hanoi to catch my first overnight sleeper train.
I had no problem filling my wait time in Hanoi with gourmet seafood. Don't tell my girlfriend that I gorged on 3 dinners in a 5 hour period. Dinner 1 consisted of delicately fried soft shell crab finished with a saute of garlic and chili-pepper. The second supper took place on a street corner where I consumed possibly the largest shrimp formerly in existence, about 7 inches from nose to curl of the tail. Eating this beast compared to feasting on a foil-wrapped burrito; peel, bite, peel, bite, etc. Dinner 3 happened at the same location as number 1: grilled tiger prawns served in a spicy bath of lemon grass and chili-pepper. My stomach was now equipped to withstand having to eat in the restaurant car on the train for the next 14 hours...